In Viacha, a small Bolivian town southeast of La Paz, women often don traditional outfits: bowler hats, tiered skirts, and fringed shawls that are staples of the Indigenous Chola identity. While these garments are part of everyday life in markets, farms, and festivals, they rarely become the center of a fashion spotlight. That changed Friday evening when the town transformed its dusty streets into a lively runway.
Amid cheers from the crowd and the backdrop of early 2000s American pop hits, local girls aged 15 to 25 proudly showcased colorful skirts, glittering shoes, and sequined shawls. The event, organized by the municipal government, marked a milestone for Viacha, a highland community over 12,000 feet above sea level.
“Polleras,” the layered skirts central to the Chola attire, twirled dramatically under the stage lights. Mothers and teenagers alike basked in the celebration of their culture. “Years ago, these clothes were dismissed as rural peasant attire,” said Rogelia Canaviri, 42, smiling as she watched her daughter Carolina take to the catwalk. Canaviri, clad in her own shawl and modest beige pollera, reflected on how these garments have defined her life as a dairy farmer and cheese vendor.
Chola fashion has deep roots, tracing back to Spanish colonial rule, when Indigenous people were forced to adopt European clothing styles. Over time, these garments evolved, incorporating bowler hats introduced by British railway workers in the 1920s. For decades, the word “Chola” carried a dismissive tone, used as a slur by Bolivia’s wealthier, lighter-skinned population. But in recent years, the stigma has faded, with Indigenous Aymara communities reclaiming the term and embracing their heritage with pride.
“It’s exciting to see how far we’ve come,” said 21-year-old Brittany Cantuta Valeria, one of the models. “Now, we wear this not for labor in the fields but for fun, parties, and celebrations. It’s become something to admire.”
The rise in Chola pride coincides with the cultural shift ushered in during the presidency of Evo Morales (2006–2019), Bolivia’s first Indigenous leader. Morales expanded constitutional rights for Bolivia’s 36 ethnic groups and supported Indigenous arts and languages. Under his influence, Chola fashion shows and beauty pageants became more common, particularly in La Paz.
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For Viacha, this event was a first. Many participants, like 15-year-old Tomasa Ramirez, found inspiration in the experience. “I feel so beautiful,” she said. “Now I know I want to be a Cholita model.”
However, participating wasn’t without challenges. Bolivia’s worsening economic crisis has hit families hard, making the intricate outfits increasingly costly. Velvet hats and vicuña wool shawls can cost thousands of dollars, while polleras and gold jewelry fetch high prices. “This year, I had to settle for imitation gold earrings,” said Julieta Mamani, 16. “I hope next year will be better.”
Watching her daughter glow in her elaborate attire, Canaviri expressed a heartfelt wish. “I hope she never prefers pants,” she said, laughing. “I wore them once and felt exposed. Never again!”
Viacha’s vibrant runway show symbolized more than fashion—it was a proud reclaiming of culture and identity, offering hope and joy in a challenging time.